Lost Canyons of Central Asia

By Richard D. Fisher and Maria Gates
with Fan Xuejiao

March 2010

The deepest canyons on earth which are located in the eastern rim of the Tibetan Plateau are experiencing tremendous evolutionary changes. Since 1986 our non-profit organization, Wilderness Expeditions Ltd. has been documenting these changes. Now with the rise of China the changes are escalating at breath taking speed. Here is our first installment detailing these changes first hand and for the first time.

Chapter 1

Lancang Jiang/Mekong River Gorge

On the way to the Mekong we pass the famous “Great Bend” of the Yangzi River which now has an over look for tourists. The name for this place in Chinese language is the “Moon Turn”.

Mt. Meili Snow Mountain, also know as Mt. Kawakarpo, the highest peak at 22,112 ft. (6,740m) in Yunnan Province forms the western rim of the Mekong Gorge. Mingyong Glacier which was 12km at length in 2007 is shrinking fast and is closely monitored.

Famous peach blossoms of the Tibetan Plateau signify the beginning of spring March 2010.

Yanjing Ancient Salt Terraces of the southeastern plateau created by salt springs.  Into ancient times up until 100 years ago Yanjing’s wealth grew incredibly because this was the only source for life sustaining salt in Yunnan and surrounding areas.

The salt pans
Salt mining has been the main industry in Yanjing for a very long time. There are no written records of when it all started but there were references to wars started due to disputes over salt resources in this region. Yanjing’s salt-mining technique is unique as it capitalizes on the long hours of sunshine and strong wind along the Mekong River (Lancang Jiang)  to dry the brine.

The salt pans are along a curve of the Mekong River (Lancang Jiang), clinging to the hillside. The reason that the pans are concentrated near the bend is the strong wind generated as the river flows south around the bend. These are multiple levels of wooden platforms covered with dry clay and supported by round wooden stilts. There are supposedly around 3,000 such platforms, each measuring about 5m by 8m on both sides of the river. The sides of the platforms are about six inches high and this is where the brine is spread out to be evaporated leaving behind layers of salt crystal.

The brine is collected from a few wells on the river bank, dug a few meters onto the river bed. Apparently this is the only place in the world where salt is collected from river brine; all the other salt fields are either from sea or lake brine. Farmers collect water from the salt wells in wooden barrels carried on their backs. These are emptied into salt ponds in their own courtyards and left there to allow the brine to concentrate. The brine is then poured onto salt pans where the water is evaporated by a combination of hot sun and wind- it takes 2-5 days to dry, depending on the facing of the pans against the wind.

There are different qualities of salt being produced here. The top layer of the salt collected is the best quality, normally for human consumption. For some unknown reasons, the salt produced from brine on one side of the river is red while that on the other side is white. Hence the villages on the banks are also known as White and Red Yanjing respectively.

Salt is produced all year round, though the busiest months are during spring when the wind conditions allow the brine to dry faster. There are lesser activities in the summer months due to the frequent rain.

The Population – Culture Diversity
Yanjing town is divided into two parts- Lower Yanjing and Upper Yanjing about 5 km apart. Lower Yanjing appears to be the “original” settlement while Upper Yanjing which is further north is newer with a higher population.  The salt pans are situated between the two settlements but the cliffs are so steep that the river and the salt pans along a stretch of the river cannot be seen from the towns at all.
Lower Yanjing has a huge Naxi population, equaling that of the Tibetans; this is the biggest Naxi settlement in the whole of Tibet. The Naxi’s are generally farmers who live and farm higher up the gorge whereas most, if not all of the salt “farmers” are Tibetans. The Naxi’s here are distinctly different from their more numerous compatriots in Yunnan. The Yunnan Naxi’s speak a Naxi language and are Tibetan Buddhists. In fact all of the population of Lower Yanjing is Buddhists.
Upper Yanjing is slightly different. Around 80% of the population is Catholic, brought to this part of Tibet in 1855 by two French missionaries. Catholic faith flourished around here but never quite spread to other parts of Tibet (except on the other side of the Meili Mountains along the Nujiang but within Yunnan). One can often see a local Tibetan donning a crucifix on his chest but apart from that, the Catholic Tibetans do not look any different.

These facts are provided to us by our Tibetan Guides

Loading the small yet enduring plateau ponies for salt transport through the remote canyonlands.

The Tibetan women harvesting wheat for their village work with smiles and laughter.

In Yanjing, all of the above chores are performed by the womenfolk. Only when salt is collected on the pan, is it the men’s turn to collect the salt into bags and transport by mules and ponies to higher up the river gorge to be sold.

Red Salt Terraces

During the spring months, the salt acquires a slightly reddish tinge as a result of the flowering season and the wind conditions; this is supposedly higher quality salt and is known as Peach Salt.

Pure Saltcicles are formed by the salted brine liquid trickling down the inside of the straw shaped saltcicles and forming drops at the bottom of the straw shape to increase the length.

Miss Fan, our beloved, critically needed and most useful student translator, crosses the Yanjing Salt Terraces Bridge

Salt Workings almost ready for harvesting.

Gateway to the great wilderness of the Mekong Gorge Narrows.

Trapped in the canyon by hundreds of rock slides. The following is an email sent just after this time period.

Dearest Family and Friends,

So sorry not to have responded to your so kind emails.

We have been trapped in a canyon in a survival situation for the past week. Very bad conditions with landslides coming down all around including on top of our vehicle. Due to our wonderful driver and the grace of god we survived.

Please send any and all messages right away as we will be moving again in a day or so.

Love you so much,

Richard and Maria

Life goes on despite harsh conditions. The Chinese script on the motorcycle windscreen reads “guest welcome”.

Photo safari to the construction site of the first Hydroelectric project across the Mekong River.

Our Team at the beginning of Canyonlands documentary March 2010.

Comments welcome and appreciated.

Look for our next chapter update on the Nu Jaing-Dulong Canyons in late May 2010 at www.canyonlovers.com