by Richard D. Fisher with Maria Gates

Rafting the Grand Canyon of the Colorado River under your own power is a dream of a lifetime and long sought after technical challenge as well as spiritual goal. Hiking the side canyons like the Little Colorado River, Clear Creek, Deer Creek, Havasupai Canyon with almost uncounted other little known canyons, is a destination adventure in and of itself. After a life time of canyoneering world wide it is hard think of another canyon on earth with as much diversity, beauty or such ecstatic pure natural and creative pleasures. After viewing this web chapter of: www.canyonlovers.com can you agree?

Little Colorado River with it’s travertine blue waters at the with the Colorado River and the junction of Marble Canyon and the Grand Canyon itself.  One of the top 10 canyon places on earth.

Rafting beneath Navajo Bridge in our Grand Canyon USA

The dream begins as our little raft passes beneath the Navajo Bridge which crosses the Marble Canyon of the Colorado River near Lee’s Ferry in Arizona, USA. It is the only roadway crossing of the river and the Grand Canyon for nearly 600 miles  The bridge carries travelers to and from Utah and Arizona , also a key access point which includes the North Rim of Grand Canyon National Park. Before the first Navajo Bridge was built, the only river crossing from Arizona to Utah was at nearby Lee’s Ferry, where the rafting trips are launched in modern times.

Travertine sky blue water swimmer.

The Little Colorado River is the main river draining the Painted Desert, eastern Arizona and even parts of New Mexico. The sky blue waters are made by a very high content of calcium carbonate which comes from the Kaibab and Redwall Limestones of the Colorado Plateau.

It is a mystical experience when raft trips pull in at the confluence of the Colorado and Little Colorado Rivers. It was an experience that can hardly be surpassed in a life time, especially that of a life long professional canyon photographer.

My daughter Mariah had an epiphany in these magical moments of existence. Everyone in our rafting party was watching our etherial little fairy so she was feeling very shy as I gave her hand signals of where to walk in the river. She showed her temper a bit as  she exclaimed that she could not understand me over such a long distances. There was so much pressure on me as the location was mobbed by so many tourist from the big “baloney” boats. And our group was taking so much delight in uncomfortable our situation.  They were pressuring us to move on to so they could do some hiking further down river.

This was our one moment, the very special moment that I had stayed on  Grand Canyon rafting waiting list for over 10 years for.  And it was perfect, the light, the water color and my perfect daughter…a perfect beauty…in perfect nature. I waved Mariah over and she looked up at me with tears in her clear blue-gray eyes. I put my arm around her shoulders and drew her close to me. I whispered to her, do you remember how we used to do hand signals?  We haven’t done it for so long time. Can you remember now?  Yes, she whispered, I can do it. And then….she and I made one of the most beautiful canyon photographs ever.

Kayak Marble Canyon

Marble Canyon is one of the safest sections of the Grand Canyon run so here Mariah got her first chance to caption her own boat on any river. The inflatable kayak was paddled by an adult of lashed aboard one of the larger rafts in the few big rapids on the upper section of the Grand Canyon like House Rock and Hanse.

Vasey’s Paradise is watered by a spring that leaps directly from hole the north wall of the Grand Canyon. it is a precise example of where those looking for water on Mars should be searching. Using a flying drone NASA should fly through Valles Marineris, the largest and deepest know canyon in our solar system, and photograph both the north and south walls of the canyon. While it is unlikely that there are any waterfalls, it is very likely that there is liquid water seeping from deep (warmer) geological layers and that if there is life, it will have evolved in such water seeps. Both the concept of the water seep and attendant life are exampled perfectly here
in our Paradise Grand Canyon USA.

Clear Creek has one of the most fascinating water falls in the Grand Canyon.

The Bright Angle Trail originates on the south rim and is the access point at which those on a half canyon raft trip exit the canyon. Due to safety considerations and Mariah’s age of 12 years we opted to hike out rather than raft the more rugged and dangerous lower section of the river trip.

We hiked up the first section of the Bright Angle trail to the Tonto Plateau in the pre dawn darkness. At Indian Gardens  the first sun hit us with it’s early June force. We were so glad to have started in the dark. At the campground we ate a hardy breakfast and wet our shirts. With high spirits we started out in beautiful early morning but soon the sun became harsh and the climb grueling. We hit the “wall” several miles and about two hours below the rim. We stuffed ourselves with high calorie food to no avail.  Our bodies could just not absorb the calories fast enough to provide the energy necessary to “top out” comfortably. But with no choice we pushed on knowing that it would just get hotter as the day wore on. We made it over the rim about 2 pm and were so proud. This twelve year old had truly “done” our Grand Canyon.

In previous years I had led 3 trips down the “Grand”  Below Phantom Ranch begins most of the really big and the Colorado rivers most challenging rapids. Hermit is one of the very best…if you hit the biggest wave head on.

Inside Grand Canyon Deer Creek

Deer Creek is a stream that flows into the Colorado River from the north through a spectacular slot canyon in the Tapeats sandstone. I had really wanted to hike this incredibly narrow slot down to the head of the Deer Creek Falls that then plunges 150 feet from the cliff face directly into the river.

The same tree garden as seen from above in side Deer Creek Grand Canyon in the proceeding photo.

Lava Falls Rapid is often thought to be caused by the lava field that flows from the Uinkaret volcanic field. But this is not factually accurate. What causes the rapid is actually an out flow of huge boulders from Prospect Canyon into the the river, narrowing and constriction of the river channel, which increases the velocity of the current and added to the elevation drop which increases the turbulence and speed of the water to make on of the scariest run able rapids on earth.

Challenge Lava Falls Grand Canyon Rafting

Anticipating the big drop Lava Falls Grand Canyon canyon.

Two of the worlds leading canyoneers of the 1990′s, Jill Bielawski and Eric Manthey, challenges Big Lava.

Sink that cataraft in Lava Falls Grand Canyon USA

Taste sweet victory Lava Falls Grand, Canyon

Cataraft captin and crew riding high in Lava Falls

What a thrill to see, what a thill to do, what a thrill to photograph like this.  WOW, one of life’s biggest thrills, in the boat and out!

The Havasupai, an American Indian tribe is called Havsuw’ Baaja, blue water people, have lived in the Grand Canyon for at least 800 years. Havasu Creek and the little village of Supai is their homeland. The creek and it’s sky blue colored water is a major attraction for river runners. The creek stays about 70 ?F year round and the clear warm water often offers a welcome respite and swim from the cold muddy currents of the “Red” River.

Sourcing from Havasupai, Havasu Creek with it’s blue-green water has forged out an artistic side canyon to the Grand Canyon that flows into the Colorado River. Maria Gates Photography 2011

The mineral-laden waters of Havasu Creek create vivid turquoise color that flows into the Colorado River. Maria Gates Photography 2011

Spectacular travertine formations and walls meander to create the beautiful shapes of Havasu Creek. Maria Gates Photography 2011

Spectacular travertine formations and walls meander to create the beautiful shapes of Havasu Creek. Maria Gates Photography 2011

Havasu Falls is considered one of the most beautiful water falls in the world.  It is ever changing as new terraces are built up by the lime in travertine sky blue waters and then washed away by the occasional flash floods. This falls is about 120 feet high making it one of the highest in the Grand Canyon.

If you have never been there, it is a life time experience if one loves canyons, waterfalls and remote swimming pools set deep in red desert cliffs. If one comes down by mule from the rim or takes the longish hike up from the river it is forever worth it.

No matter if you are a child or an adult come to our mystical Grand Canyon again and again and experience your gift of life again and again in this paradise hidden deep in the earth.

by Richard D. Fisher

Developement is progressing very fast in the China/Tibet/Myanmar borderlands. After this summers “elections” in Myanmar and Chinas strong push for development in it’s far western provinces roads, schools, electronic communications, health care and tourism is reaching even the most remote corners for this long hidden land. The local people are very pleased with the “progress” as it brings them so many “befits” that so much of the developed parts of China and indeed the developed world enjoys from their point of view.

Remains of a glacial foot print base now a beautiful mountain marsh meadow in resplendent fall colors. Upper Nu Jaing River headwaters on the old road to Dulong Yunnan China.

Our goal now is to reunite what remains of the migrant Trung tribal group in Myanmar with their tribal fellows in the China border lands. The first step now is to make sure they are genetically in fact linked. We have completed the China side of the sample collection in October 2011. Now that Burma is finely opening up our next goal this winter is to visit Dawi on the Myanmar side of the extreme mountains and canyons lands.

Although much has been made of Dawi and his disappearing tribe of Tyrone pygmies over the years very little science has been done in regards to this issue and virtually none if any humanitarian work has taken place on their behalf. The tribe now faces complete extinction in Burma.

Our first objective is to immediately address his humanitarian and health needs as a human being. Our second objective is to work with him and his Tibetan tribal co-members to respectfully and with informed consent do basic scientific studies such as genetic testing. Additionally, we hope to gather as much of the history of Dawi’s family migrations during the last one hundred years and see if any of the other Qui-pa or Zhu Ru/T’rung remember or can relate oral history for the historical record. Last, yet most importantly, it is our goal to see if Dawi would be invited to return to his ancestral homeland on the personal invitation of individuals living there.Dawi has told visiting anthropologists that he does want to visit his ancestral homeland in Tibet “to find a wife.” Whereas nothing was done to help him reach his personal dream he may perhaps be too old to marry and have children now. It should also be noted that people from Burma visit the Tibet borderlands each and every day for trade commerce and medical care. We believe that if he decides to stay he will need formal paperwork and visas, etc. but we do have people who are qualified to address these issues.

If you would like to support this project please contact us at:
Wilderness Research Expeditions Ltd.POB 86492Tucson AZ 85754520-882-5341 Email:  sunracer2@hotmail.com

Rare deep mystical forest of the most remote part of the eastern tail of the Himalayan mountain range.

The last village at the current end of the road which is driving north to Tibet very nearby and it is said on to Myanmar.

The last village and our first true pygmy. Still days walk north of the current road end. Mr. Sho La standing in the red trousers said he was just over 60 and healthy. He did not appear to have any genetic challenges like dwarfism or mental handicap common with these isolated people.

Mystified yet peaceful curious people meets their first not so tall western visitor maybe ever. Sweet spirited gelflings, hobbits or pygmy s…beautiful people by any name. Lady Do San is one of the several surviving tattooed woman living in this remote “pygmy” Grand Canyon.

All little people standing tall.

Sho La try’s his first tasty canned peach maybe ever? He did know how to eat it so I cut it up with my Swiss Army knife and stabbed the slippery morsel with a chop stick.

Wa–open wide Mr Sho La. Missing a few teeth looks like. But still happy and going strong.

Sho La volunteers some inside of the cheek cells to help identify his lost tribal brother “Dawi” of Burma.

Now Sho La the last healthy Dulong Pygmy is really happy as he shows off his trusty crossbow. He shot both of the chop sticks I brought with me far into the bush. I can tell you he really had fun that morning and he it showed it! And I forgot all my discomfort from the rough frontier life and really enjoyed myself fully with my new found friends! What a day, at long last!

Lot’s af very little people abounding in this wilderness on the Tibet/China/Burma frontier.

Gelfling princess with ethnographic photographer Richard D. Fisher. October 2011

Progress and development rolling in fast. These people aren’t kidding around. They are pushing forward day to day. Every one seems happy as the local people get training and even the skilled jobs running the heavy machinery.

No messing around here. Drilling blasting holes high up on the cliff face.

Concrete blocks of progress…giddy up-mules!

The real deal for better homes and gardens in their view anyway. They sure work hard enough at it.

Now a just kidding photograph.  Old western guy modeling my drivers competition crossbow hand mad in China shirt and pants. The quiver has real boars tusk and wild mountain antelope hide. Hat from Tucson Arizona USA tops off the “high fashion” modern frontier look.

Ancient alpine forest now very rare in the most remote eastern Himalayan  canyons and ridges.

Last view upon leaving the enchanted fairyland of the “Lost Pygmy” Trung tribe. October 2011

Copyright California Academy of Sciences, photographer Dong Lin.

Above 3 photo’s from the “discovery” of the “Lost Pygmy Tribe” 2009

Beauty Queen of the Trung tattooed gelflng tribe.

Search for the “Lost Tribe of Tibetan Pygmies” 2009
Since his exploration of the world’s deepest canyon in Tibet in the 1990’s, Richard Fisher has been researching the existence of an unknown tribe of Mongolide pygmies in the tri-border region of China, Tibet, and Myanmar. Fisher has confirmed in 2009 that a unique tribe of pygmies, the T’rung, lives in the Dulongjiang Canyon of Tibet, hidden from the outside and unknown by the western world until now. Today there are over 5,000 T’rung people living in six designated villages within the canyon.

Formerly, the Taron (T’rung) tribe of Myanmar/Burma was scientifically defined as the only tribe of Mongolide pygmies after its discovery in the 1960’s. By the 1990’s, scientists claimed that the tribe was near extinction, having succumbed to genetic diseases. At the same time, Fisher had encountered families in the Dulongjuiang Canyon area that were extremely short in stature, yet otherwise perfectly formed humans. When he learned about the Taron pygmies in 2004, he decided further research was needed to learn if other similar tribes existed in the area.The T’rung are a peaceful people; they are increasingly educated, provided with basic health care (by who?), and as tribes across the world have done, are increasingly looking to and integrating into the outside world. The images from the Dulongjiang Canyon and T’rung people offer us a glimpse into an untouched and fascinating world most of us have never seen. Documenting the images and customs of this tribe is essential to preserving the history of these people. In recent years, the T’rung have begun to have more substantial contact with the outside world. In addition, the T’rung people are increasingly intermarrying with other ethnic groups. Time is of the essence to record the history and culture of this unique tribe. Not only will this encourage the sharing of human experience, but the micro-population of this isolated canyon also allows us to learn more about the process of human evolution. It is important to document this unique world and its people while we still can.

A. Project Background:
http://openlibrary.org/authors/OL1510899A/Burma_Medical_Research_Society.

1. The Taron Tribe of Myanmar/Burma were scientifically and officially defined in the 1960s as the only tribe of Mongolide pygmies. Special Report Series No. 1: The Tarons in Burma, the results of a scientific expedition by Burma Medical Research Society. Published in 1966, Burma Medical Research Institute (Rangoon), Contributions: Mya-Tu, Dr., Burma Medical Research Institute. One would be described as a common pygmy gene where individuals are less than 4’11” yet perfectly formed human beings. Other populations are equally small but display varying degrees of what can be described as dwarfism or hobbits.
2. In the 1990s it was reported by numerous scientists, most notably Alan Rabinowitz, that the tribe was nearing extinction as there was only one male member left “Dawi” by name, who was young and healthy enough to have a family. The tribe had succumbed to genetic diseases originating from inbreeding which is common in remote and isolate places like these rugged canyonlands of northern Myanmar/Burma (as reported by Raboniwitz). It was also reported during this time period that the Taron originated in Tibet where they had been driven out of by slave traders and conflicts with their Tibetan neighbors in the late 1800s.
3. The Taron are a part of a more numerous and also diminutive group known more widely as the Rawang (by P. Christiaan Klieger 4/09 and Alan Rabinowitz 2001) people. This is very similar to the situation in the Congo where defined pygmies are surrounded by a slightly taller tribe into which they sometimes marry.
4. In the 1990s Richard D. Fisher noticed, as the first American to explore the world’s deepest canyon in Tibet, some individual families who were exceptionally small. Fisher assumed that this was a result of poor diet, inadequate food and also the extreme canyon environment which worldwide favors small agile people.
5. In 2004 Fisher was invited to speak at a Texas Explorers Club meeting where he met a fellow explorer Brenda Shaddox who specialized in Myanmar/Burma who related the story of Dawi and the Taron Pigmies.
6. After 5 years of research Fisher decided it was time to find out that if indeed there were Pygmies in the borderlands of Tibet/China/Myanmar.
7. Fisher’s findings from 2 expeditions in April and May 2009 are:
   A. That yes, today there is a specific and specialized tribe in the tri-border region now known as “Dulong” people from whom the Taron are descended (Dulong= Taron= T’rung depending on your language. Dulong is Chinese and Taron is Burmese transliteration of T’rung). These people have for hundreds of years been recognized as a separate culture and especially small people. Prior to the 1950s they were known as the as the Qui-pa ethnic group in China and Tibet (I have been told that Qui-pa is a derogatory modern Chinese term. Monpa would be more accurate for Tibetans). Formerly they had strife with their neighbors especially over the capture and enslavement of their women by larger and physically more powerful neighbors. This is one of the reasons given for the tradition of face tattooing among the Qui pa women up until the 1960s.
   B. The name of these people depends on the language group that are describing them. I feel that perhaps they are best called T’rung. Today there are over 5,000 T’rung people living in the Dulongjiang Canyon which is 3,804 meters or 12,480 feet deep, more than twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in Arizona, USA.
   C. Within this area there are 6 designated villages, 838 households and 5,600 adults and many healthy and lively children as well.
   D. The canyon environment is diversified with many micro climates from subtropical rain forest to mountain tundra and there are a number of small glaciers remaining in the surrounding highest peaks. The forested region is still 97% intact with old growth trees predominating from the frigid alpine fern forest down to the tropical jungle through which runs a pristine and sparkling sky blue river.
   E. Historically the T’rung people have mostly kept themselves apart from the outside world as well as their nearest neighbors. Today they a peaceful and happy people who are increasingly educated, provided with basic health care, and are now as all native people worldwide, looking to and integrating with the outside world.
   F. Many T’rung also are living the old ways which are fascinating with many unique traditions. (I will elaborate more later) One of the most interesting customs was discontinued in 1966 is face tattooing of women. As of 2003 there were 60 women remaining who have face tattoos averaging 71.9 years old with the oldest being 108 years old. I was able, with permission, to photograph 4-5 of these matrons which to my surprise were very beautiful as well as animated. One tattooed lady I hiked along side of and photographed was carrying a burden basket heavier than 50 lbs. over 6 miles and she reported she was in her 80s.
8. 8. Until the 1960s all T’rung pygmies had a nature based religion including bull sacrifice, praying for no flooding when they see fire in the sky and the god of good hunting. Today many T’rung are Pentecostal Christian yet retaining many of their beliefs on the forces of the natural world.
9. 9. All that were interviewed report that they knew of no twins, that they normally lived to 70-80 years old, and that they are agriculturalists thriving on corn, vegetables, cattle, a few goats and pigs, and many chickens.

Why are T’rung “undiscovered” pygmies?
The western scientist who defined the Taron as pygmies in Burma did not look to this ethnic group’s historical roots in Tibet to see if there were others, because Tibet and parts of western China were “closed areas” until the past decade. Fisher was the first American to enter and publish on many of these vast canyonlands starting in 1987 most particularly the Yarlung Tsanpo where the issue of a lost Tibetan Pygmy tribe first came into question.

C. While Chinese ethnologists have long recognized the Dulong or Qui-pa people as exceptionally physically small and indeed a unique separate culture, they have never, until May 14, 2009, considered the issue that they might actually be pygmies. Why is this discovery important?Opening communications and dialog between the east and west is always an important goal for human understanding and knowledge.

1. The T’rung people are increasingly intermarrying with other ethnic groups. Right now the time is critical to the human understanding of many aspects of shared human cultures, common as well as diverse histories and in this case the all issues relating to Pygmies and the quest for knowledge of human evolution.
2. At the moment a scientific debate is raging about the findings of “hobbit” bones on the island of Flores in Indonesia. These new findings about the T’rung Pygmies may be of importance to this ongoing debate in many ways.
3. Fisher’s proposal is that the canyonlands of Tibet/China/Myanmar are perhaps a hot spot of human evolution toward small nimble people, or on the other hand, a refuge for a human genetic line that will soon be lost in the mainstream of human “progress”. Both may certainly be true at the same time. Also in many ways canyons are like islands producing unique micro-populations of great diversity in plants, animals and perhaps humans as well.
4. Such “findings” are fascinating to humans worldwide and make for interesting and readable news.
5. The photography while being uniquely captivating and illustrative, is for the first time available to the IT (digital) universe.

D. On a personal note:

1. I find it very interesting what these people are actually called or defined as. I found that while “Pygmy” is scientifically accurate, that “hobbit” may apply to the inbreed Taron group in Myanmar/Burma, that the best term that applies to my observations is “gelflings” after the imaginative “Dark Crystal” fantasy by Jim Henson.

Richard D. Fisher

Entering a mystical portal and down into a hidden land Spring 2009

Down to the sky blue river.

The lost pygmies of Tibet and their hidden mystical canyon. Spring 2009

Exotic Canyons, Caves and Cultures of Indochina

Text and photography by Richard D. Fisher with photography by Maria Gates

Sapa Vietnam, Gateway to the Grand Canyon of Vietnam, is approached from the north from border town of Hekow China, a 5-7 hour bus ride south of Kunming Yunnan, Hakou is a tropical place hot and humid in the summer and very pleasant and dry in the winter.  Hekow is a relatively clean border town reflecting the modernization and relative wealth of the “New China”.  From the south Sapa is approached from Hanoi to Lao Cai by train (9+ hours) and then a spectacular 1-2 hour bus or private car ride up the mountain to the comfort of Sapa.

Fansipan Peak (3134 meters-10,308 feet) is called the “Roof of Indochina” dominates the view from Sapa but few see the canyons that are hidden in the mountains and rugged terrain on all sides.  The exact extent of the “Grand Canyon of Vietnam” is still to be determined but preliminary results reveal that the low elevation is about 1000 meters making the canyon about 6,000 feet deep, roughly the size the Grand Canyon of the Colorado in Arizona USA.

On my two visits to the area weather was a big factor for my exploration and photography. In mid-winter and early spring Sapa is very often fogged in completely for weeks at a time and in the summer monsoon rains create incredible thunder storms and again, lots of foggy days. In the summer, however, I found some incredible sunny afternoons. Late spring late fall are perhaps the best times to tour this spectacular region.

Unexplored slot canyons like the one above abound in this region which host the Grand Canyon Vietnam.

Besides being the gateway to the Grand Canyon of Vietnam, Sapa is home to some of the most diverse hill tribes in S.E. Asia. Hmong and Yao groups are seen in the largest numbers but Tay and Giay are selling crafts as well. Until 1910 or so these tribal groups dominated the high mountains and deep canyons. After that the French stated colonization here due to the “healthy climate”  the precipitous lands were slowly dominated in turn by the French followed by the lowland Vietnamese (Kinh) and now by…tourist from all over the world.

This region is now protected as the “Phong Nha-Ke Bang”  National Park as recognized  by UNESCO World Heritage Site (2003).  This is a Limestone (Karst) geological topography abounding in caves and underground rivers (estimated at 300+) but also hundreds of  “slot canyons” many of which are still unexplored. This is an extension of the famous Annamite Range which runs south along the Laos-Vietnam border for hundreds of kilometers. This is one of the two largest Karst/Limestone regions on the planet Earth. Technically the limestone is from the Palaeozoic era some 400 million years ago.

I stayed in several hotels in Sapa prices ranging from 8-30 USD per night, but I recommend the 3 Star Holiday Sapa due to their English speaking staff:

Holiday Sapa
16 Muong Hoa St.
Lao Cai Vietnam
(84) 203-873-874
info@holidaysapa.com
www.holidaysapa.com

Traveling south from Sapa one can visit Dien Bien Phu the township where the native Vietnamese defeated the colonial French colonist in a 6-7 hour private hire car or a 10-12 hour bus ride. This drive is overflowing with conical Karst mountain peaks, small canyons,valleys rivers, agricultural villages connected with very winding narrow but mostly paved roads. From there one can cross into Laos or continue south to the coast and down to the town of Dong Hoi, the gateway to the most spectacular caves yet discovered in Vietnam. This region is now protected as the “Phong Nha-Ke Bang”  National Park as recognized  by UNESCO World Heritage Site (2003).  This is a Limestone (Karst) geological topography abounding in caves and underground rivers (estimated at 300+) but also hundreds of  “slot canyons” many of which are still unexplored. This is an extension of the famous Annamite Range which runs south along the Laos-Vietnam border for hundreds of kilometers. This is one of the two largest Karst/Limestone regions on the planet Earth. Technically the limestone is from the Palaeozoic era some 400 million years ago.

As exotic a system of canyons and caves as found anywhere in the world in the Central Vietnam Highlands.

It was a long and grueling 2 day bus ride from Dien Bien Phu to Dong Hoi gate way ti the cerntral highlands. There I found a wonderful small family style hotel specializing in catering and providing assistance to cave explorers and environmental researchers. The owners there provide by far the best service to anyone wanting to see world class caves, rivers, canyons, and wildlife in this spectacular region.

Sy and Nga Ho Van run the Nam Long Hotel:
Address: 22 Ho Xuan Huong st – Dong Hoi city- Quang Binh Province, Vietnam
Tel: (84-52) 821851 ; Fax: (84-52) 829774
Email: sytrang25@yahoo.com
Website: www.hotels84.com/quangbinh-hotels/namlonghotel.htm
Room rate: from 10-16 USD

Conical Karst peaks dominate foothills landscapes of central Vietnam north to Dien Bien Phu and starting near Sapa.

Phong Nha Cave
A wonder of recent historical importance, this cave played a key role in conflicts since the 1950′s as it provided an air raid shelter for the population north of the DMZ. The Son river actually penetrates into the mountain for over a half a mile and from the mouth where there are 14 chambers  and secondary corridors that branch in all directions which which served variously as a hospital,  living quarters and storage areas large enough for a small city. There are numerous natural features such as the Lion, the Fairy Caves”, the Royal Court and the Buddha seen on the daily tours.

This tour actually starts and ends with a half hour boat trip on the river with about a two hour walking tour upon sailing into the cave.

Thien Duong Cave

Also called “Paradise” cave this is a newly found cave in the National Park. Some of the most beautiful and spectacular stalactites and stalagmites in the Park are found in this cave. The cave has been leased to a private company which has done a good job in developing it by putting in professionally designed road access, board walks and lighting. This cave was opened to the public in early 2011.  This cave is about 70 km or 1 hour+ by private car from Dong Hoi on a paved road that winds through the rice paddies and into the mountains and canyons to reach the cave parking area. In January 2011 the entry fee was about $6 USD.

Son Doong Cave
This mountain river cave gained much international attention in the last year as it has been designated by National Geographic USA and the British Cave Research Association as the largest cave in the world between the years of  2009-2011.

Wildlife of the Vietnam NationalParks in the Annamite Range

The forest is also home to 98 families, 256 genera and 381 species of vertebrates. Sixty-six animal species are listed the Vietnamese in the Red List of Endangered species and are still found here in these protected parks.

In 2005, a new species of gecko (Lygosoma boehmeiwas) was discovered here by a group of Vietnamese biologists together with biologists working for the park, Cologne Zoo in Germany and the Saint Petersburg Wild Zoology Institute in Russia.The Gaur and one species of eel have been discovered in this park.[1] Ten new species never seen before in Vietnam were discovered by scientists in this national park. The Park is home to significant populations of primates in Vietnam, with ten species and sub-species. These include the globally vulnerable Pig-tailed Macaque, Assamese Macaque, Stump-tailed Macaque and White-cheeked Crested Gibbon (Nomascus leucogenys and Nomascus leucogenys siki). The Park is probably home to the largest population of Francois’ Langur in Vietnam, including two different forms of the species. The area is highly significant for its population of Hatinh Langur and Black Langur. It is undoubtedly the largest population of these species in the world, and probably the only population represented in a protected area. Other endangered large mammals include theMainland Serow (Capricornis sumatraensis), Giant Muntjac (Megamuntiacus vuquangensis) and possibly the Saola (Pseudoryx nghetinhensis). TheAsiatic Black Bear (Selenarctos thibetanus) and Sun Bear (Helarctos malayanus) are confirmed. Other smaller mammals include Sunda Pangolins (Manis javanica) and the recently discovered Striped hare, called locally ‘tho van’ (Nesolagus timminsii). Ten bat species listed in the IUCN List of Threatened Species have been recorded in this park.Of the 59 recorded reptile and amphibian species, 18 are listed in Vietnam’s Red Data Book and 6 are listed in the IUNC Red List of Threatened Animals. The 72 fish species include 4 species endemic to the area, including Chela quangbinhensis.

The park is home to over 200 bird species, inclusive of several rare birds such as: Chestnut-necklaced Partridge, Red-collared Woodpecker, Brown Hornbill, Sooty Babbler andShort-tailed Scimitar-babbler. There is good evidence for the Vietnamese Pheasant (Lophura hatinhensis) and Imperial Pheasant (Lophura imperialis) species at Phong Nha – Kẻ Bàng area. An initiative survey conducted by Russian and Vietnamese scientists from Vietnam-Russia Tropical Centre (funded by WWF) recorded 259 butterfly species of 11 families. Almost all major butterfly taxa in Vietnam can be found in the Phong Nha – Ke Bang National Park.

The Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park was recognized by UNESCO in 2003 and again in 2007 as a World Natural Heritage Site.

Son Doong Cave
This mountain river cave gained much international attention in the last year as it has been designated by National Geographic USA and the British Cave Research Association as the largest cave in the world between the years of  2009-2011.

It is so good to see that such good hearted people have survived the dark years and are living so happily in our times to be our host, guides and now friends. This lovely couple welcomes guest from all countries globally with warm and hospitable services and true comradeship as well.

Into Laos….
Feb. 13, 2011

Lao Bao, southwest of Dong Hoi and near Dong Ha in Central Vietnam, is a good border crossing to obtain a 30-day Lao visas (US$30) are available on arrival in Nam Phao. If one is traveling the other way to Vietnam from Laos, Vietnamese visas still need to be arranged in advance; available at the Vietnamese embassy in Vientiane. Due to the border crossing problems encountered there we opted to hire our friends from Sy and Naga Ho Van to drive us to the border crossing. From the Vietnamese side it’s a short walk to the Laos border. Once in Laos, motor bikes,  jumbo (three-wheeled taxis) and sawngthaew (pick-up trucks) are available to Lak Sao the first place with hotels and cafes. We were glad to be well rested for this part of the trip as it was a very difficult 3 day transit to Paksi the gateway to the Bolaven Plateau.

Pakse (also spelled Pakxi) was founded by the French in 1905 as an administrative outpost, Pakse sits at the confluence of the Mekong River and the Se Don (Don River). The town has doubled in size since construction of the new bridge across the Mekong in 2002, facilitating a tourist crossing as well as considerable trade into Thailand. Pakse is the gate way to the canyons of the Bolaven Plateau.

Bolaven Plateau
Is home to some of the most spectacular waterfalls and canyons in Southeast Asia. The geology of the plateau is igneous which contrast sharply with the Karest Limestone to the Annamite ranges to the north.

The area wasn’t farmed intensively until the French started planting coffee, rubber trees and bansidered strategically vital to both the Americans and North Vietnamese, as evidenced by the staggering amount of UXO (unexploded ordnance) still lying around. The slow process of clearing UXO continues, but in areas where it has been cleared, both local farmers and larger organisations are busy cultivating coffee (see Kąaféh Láo ). Other local products include delicious tropical fruits. The largest ethnic group on the plateau is the Laven (Bolaven means ‘home of the Laven’). Several other Mon-Khmer ethnic groups, including the Alak, Katu, Ta-oy (Tahoy) and Suay, also live on the plateau. Katu and Alak villages are distinctive because they arrange their palm-and-thatch houses in a circle.

Among other tribes, the animistic-shamanistic Suay (who call themselves Kui) are said to be the best elephant handlers. Elephants were used extensively for clearing land and moving timber, though working elephants are hard to find these days.

The Alak, Katu and Laven are distinctive for the face tattoos of their women, a custom slowly dying out as Lao influence in the area increases. Several Katu and Alak can be visited along the road between Pakse and Paksong at the western edge of the plateau, and along the laterite road that descends steadily from Muang Tha Taeng (That Heng) on the plateau to Beng, in Salavan Province.

About 40km east of Paksi is in Paksong which host a large day market frequented by many tribal groups. Paksong is the center the coffee growing in Laos and claims to have the “best cup of coffee in the world”. The plateau has many several spectacular waterfalls, including Tat Fan  few kilometres west of Paksong, and Tat Lo on Rte 20 to Salavan.nanas in the early 20th century. Many of the French planters left following independence in the 1950s and the rest followed as US bombardment became unbearable in the late ’60s.

We variously took several bus rides and  a boat ride down the river through the 4,000 islands and stayed on the most exotic “hippy island” where all the young European travelers hung out on the Mekong Beach.

The Khone waterfalls and Pha Pheng is a waterfall located on the Mekong River in southern Laos, near the border with Cambodia. The Khone Falls are the largest in southeast Asia and they are the main reason that the Mekong is not fully navigable into China. The falls are characterised by thousands of islands and countless
waterways, giving the area its name Si Phan Don or ‘The 4,000 islands’. The highest falls reach to 21 metres (69 ft); a succession of falls stretch 9.7 km (6.0 mi) of the river’s length.

Photography Maria Gates Narrative Richard D. Fisher

The Seven Teacups is one of the earth’s short but most spectacular canyoneering challenges. The “Teacups” is a succession of seven sculpted circular pools punctuated by six waterfalls. These sparkling emerald pools are set in tawny High Sierra Nevada granite slick rock that is polished to a high sheen. The pools are carved by rocks caught in a crevasse and under the force of the powerful high velocity water are swirled like marbles in the bottom of each cavity causing each pool to become deeper and deeper.

The name of this place is Dry Meadow Creek which is a tributary of the north fork of the Kern a few miles east of the tiny village of Johnsondale, California. The creek drops nearly three hundred feet in two-tenths of a miles which is over 1200 feet per mile.

The big view of the Teacups tributary and the Kern River forms a spectacular circle
between canyon-river-sky and set in majestic High Sierra granite cliffs. Here you
can seethe 7 Teacupsand also how the last quarter mile is obscured from view,
which is now the “Seven Teacups Gorge Mystery”.

“Back In The Day” 1998, I was in the offices of the top German outdoor adventure magazine and saw an incredulous full page photograph of kayakers dropping through an extremely technical and hazardous, yet visually striking pools, in snub-nosed kayaks. I couldn’t figure out what to think about first. Where was it? How could they do it? or How stunningly beautiful is it actually?

In 2005 I finally found the location and was able to take some interesting photographs sans people. At that time it was virtually impossible to get any type of directions or written description of this place, so typical of lacking information concerning this type of unique canyon world wide.

Evan and Johnnie, a daring-duo of fifteen year old canyoneering kayakers,
scout the high water Teacups run in May 1, 2011.

In 2011 there was still a lack of the very specific detail information we needed to reach and successfully photograph the Teacups.  Even among experts and locals who had been “all over the area for most of their lives,“ we could not find the exacting details necessary to accomplish a safe yet productive photo expedition to this little known place.  While many have now been there, kayaked and descended the Teacups in various combinations of ways, we still could not find agreement in how to get into and negotiate the lower section of the Teacups Gorge.

None the less, we were able to follow the progress of the brave young canyoneers, Evan and Johnnie, through a maze of technical challenges.  From our “eagle’s nest perch” on the south side of the slot canyon, we could easily see the entire panorama as well as observe with a great deal of trepidation the progress of Evan and Johnnie. Due to the uniquely high water this spring 2011, the daring duo made the wise decision to portage.  It became clear to us from watching their heart stopping scout that they had been told where the portage was but had never actually done it themselves.

Evan did a heart pounding descent on the north side of the falls only to find out that it is not possible without ropes in excess of 200 feet to get down that section.  After he gave us a couple of near heart attacks ascending to his original position on an extended unprotected freeclimb of featureless slick rock, he rejoined Johnnie. They moved further north about 100 yards, perhaps 200 feet descending several brushy ledges and cracks.  There they found the place where they could lower their boats down a 100 foot slick rock cliff.

Slick rock cliff kayak portage in the Kern River Canyon Teacups.

Look closely at the lower right quadrant of the above photograph and you will see a brilliant orange kayak. This will give you some perspective and scale of the mandatory portage of the Seven Teacups.

At this point it was getting very late in the day, so as Evan and Johnnie reached the bottom of this slick rock cliff, we departed for our three hour arduous bushwhack back to our vehicle knowing the daring duo were over the worst part and under the circumstances, reasonably safe.

Later at the Johnsondale take out bridge on the Kern River, we found that the canyoneers had several more close calls involving near broken legs, dehydration, and extreme sunburns. Being fifteen they were remarkably well-recovered the following day. They looked a lot like two nearly drowned and starving puppies, but our hats are off to them for their bravery as well as wilderness skills at such a young age.

THE SEVEN TEACUPS GORGE MYSTERY

For us one mystery still remains. What happens in the slot canyon gorge between the Teacups and the Kern River? It is not possible to see clearly from any vantage point but from our view point it appeared that there was another 200-300 foot drop through the hidden gorge to the Kern River. We have been told “there is really nothing in there except a few small falls.”. And on the other hand, we have been told that there are several small technical falls and deep pools and two more waterfalls in the range of 30-70 feet in this last mysterious quarter mile.

We leave our story of May 1, 2011 with a question: What specifically is in the lower Seven Teacups gorge. And we want to know the information from someone who has actually done
it personally. Can you help us?

sunracer2@hotmail.com
mgates01@gmail.com

I already know the canyons were of Karst Geology (limestone) and there for would most likely be what are called “Slot Canyons” of a rugged and challenging nature. Swimming long pools, bouldering, a bit of climbing as well as rafting might be required to explore them. The first thing to do was locate maps and level expert on these canyons.  We were in fantastic luck again when our frist and perhaps most important discovery was  Enver Lucas,  a Turkish/American who spoke both native English as well as Turkish languages and owned a much in demand fine yacht and know a considerable amount about the local canyons as well as all things Turkish including an encyclopedia knowledge of the history of the entire region and indeed the nation of Turkey.

The history, geography,geology and culture that Envor shared with us over several days was so fascinating I must recommend the Antalia link on Wikipedia which is exceptionally well done.  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Antalya

Photography by Maria Gates and Richard D. Fisher

Koprulu Canyon
Along side the Mediterranean when you take the Alanya highway and drive to Northeast of Antalya, at the turn off for Tasagil, is the scenic route that leads to the Koprülü Canyon National Park . The twisting road crisscrosses over mountain streams and passes through Virgin forests. It is often a slow drive as the view at every turn is more beautiful than the last. The park, 92 km from Antalya , is the valley of wild beauty rich in flora and fauna. The canyon stretches for 14 km along the Koprü River and is 400 meters deep in some places. The Roman Oluk Bridge , which spans the canyon, and the Bugrum Bridge over the Kocadere stream, are engineering feats of antiquity. From this park you can make two possible excursions to the ancient city of Selge and to the Dedegol Mountains. Dedegol, the highest peak in this mountain range rises to 2,992 meters. An important city of ancient Pisidia, Altinkaya (Selge), northwest of the Koprulu Canyon National Par , is reached by a winding mountain road. Now Canyon is very popular for white river Rafting area make is attractive by the tourists in the Antalya Hotels, and everyday a thousands comes and have Boat rafting tours in the Koprulu Canyon (Beskonak) on the region. Connection of Manavgat province with other centers is only maintained by road. Bus companies within province are maintaining transportation to other cities and provinces from Antalya at west and Alanya at east. Bus companies in Manavgat and Side coaching station, are increasing their bus voyages according to tourist number, which increases during summer months. Alternative minibus voyages are organized from province to Manavgat Waterfalls, Side, Sorgun like visitable places. (the next 4 photo’s below)

Enver and Richard discuss their worldwide canyoneering adventures over good local wine, bread, goat cheese and salami on the stunning overlook of the Korprulu canyon.

Richard Fisher carefully listening to the advice of the original canyoneers Gok Tevfik and Enver Lucas at the entry way to Turkeys incredible canyoneering challenge in Koprulu. Gok Tevfik, meaning “sky Tevfik” for his blue eyes, has a wonderful B&B at the entry way of the Koprulu canyon narrows. (above) lucas@turkertravel.com.tr

Maria Gates hiking the canyons section of the St. Paul Trail. (above)

Please see:

http://www.selfguidedturkey.com/turkey/trekking-in-turkey

http://www.selfguidedturkey.com/st-paul-trail-106

The lovely small villages scattered about the rims of all of these canyons is breathtaking. A small village above the Saklikent Canyon. (above)

Turkish Canyon beauty was selling tasty tea, flat bread and diced mutton in a very small family road side tent. (above)

Tourgut Canyon

The entrance of the Tourgut Canyon or “Deer Canyon”.  A little known slot canyon near Marmaris. The splendor of the native Pink Bougainvillea common to all of these canyons came as a complete surpise. For the true canyoneer, this hidden jewel is yet a challenge to be discovered. (above)

http://www.marmaristown.com/ecotourism/marmaris-hiking.html

Many of the canyons in Turkey still beckon the canyoneer.  We basically did an inventory of the major canyons along the southern coast. It would require a wet suit do to the very cold water and a great deal of canyoneering skill as well as youthful strength and energy to explore more deeply into these, perhaps dangerous, narrows. We are quite sure it would be worth it however. Such an explorer would find and incredible array of springs, water falls, side canyons and deep emerald as well as sky blue waters which most likely have never been photographed before.

Saklikent Canyon: an incredible slot canyon about 60km west of Antalya (below)

Recommended:
Excellent Guide/English speaking Turkish/American
Enver Lucas
Address: PIM PK #20
Antalya, Turkey 07275
Phone: (0242) 419-2441
Cell:  (0532) 477-2642

Contact web site:
www.cavurali.com
lucas@turkertravel.com.tr

Enver Lucas is a Turkish American who introduced adventure travel to Turkey. After graduating from TED Ankara Koleji and college in San Diego, he lived in Yosemite National Park for over a decade. Here he learned about the hospitality business and became an avid mountaineer, skier and naturalist. He became a professional whitewater rafting guide and worked many Western US rivers before returning to Turkey to navigate the first descent of the Coruh River. Enver remained in Turkey to climb mountains and to author his book Trekking In Turkey for Lonely Planet, he married Tosun’s daughter, and then started his own company specializing in adventure travel tour operations in Turkey. Enver realized the potential for tourism along the beautiful Turkish Coast at a time when pleasure trips there were unheard of so he researched the area from that perspective. He i considered the pioneer of classic, ecologically safe, and culturally interactive sailing itineraries in Turkey such as “The Turquoise Coast” and “The Sapphire Seas”. Enver is an accredited professional guide and tour operator for connoisseurs, and works with leading American adventure travel firms such as Geographic Expeditions and Wilderness Travel.

The Tara river canyon does have two very important items to speak for it as one of the earths preeminent chasms. The first is that it is one of the most beautiful canyons on the globe and the other is that as a practical matter it is the only 1 of Europe’s 3 deepest that is  raft-able. As such, it is one of the worlds “must do” in the world of  rafting. It is a photographers dreamland as well as a wonderful family adventure outing.

Our canyon research non-profit Wilderness Expeditions Ltd. of Tucson AZ. USA has been investigating the gorge for almost 2 decades. We have hiked it, done flyovers but for the first time in July 2010, we at last had the opportunity to raft it thanks to the sponsorship of Maria Gates of the Gates Group.

Our starting point was Sarajevo and from there a bus ride south (about 100km) to Foca on the border of Bosnia and Herzegovina. There we booked with a fabulous guide outfit called HIGHLANDER that is headquartered in Foco.  The next morning we set  out at 5:30 am on our fantastic adventure!

After an hours drive we came across this amazing site of the Piva Canyon. Ms. Gates took this amazing photo.

After launching on the Tara River proper after lunch we came across a family group from the mid-west USA on a two day adventure trip down the emerald blue river.

The next morning we entered into the narrowest part of the canyon and photographed this wonderful spring gushing after an hours drive we came across this amazing site of the Piva Canyon. Ms. Gates took this amazing photo.

From the east wall (river right) from a cave hidden behind a lush screen of forest.

Bucevica cave falls river right.

“The Tara River Canyon (Montenegrin: Kanjon Tara), also known as the Tara River Gorge, is the longest canyon in Montenegro. It is 82 kilometers long and is 1,300 meters at its deepest, making it the deepest river canyon in Europe. The canyon is protected as a part of Tara national park and is a tentative UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Tara River cuts through the canyon.

All along its flow, Tara gets large quantities of water from numerous sources, and quite a few tributaries. The most important tributaries on the left Tara side are Ljutica and Susica, and the most important tributaries from the right side being Vaskovaska rijeka and Draga. The most important source is the source Bajlovica sige, a source placed on the left bank of the Tara river giving to the Tara a few hundred liters per second, where the water sourcing from the Bucevica cave falls into the Tara more than thirty meters high, and more than a hundred and fifty meters bright. Very special are the Tara cascades. The roar from the cascades is heard on the very peaks of the canyon. There are more than forty cascades, the most famous being: Djavolje lazi, Sokolovina, Bijeli kamen, Gornji tepacki buk, Donji tepacki buk etc. Because of the quality of its water, and because of its unique ecological system, Tara in 1977 was put into the programme “Covjek i biosfera” (Men and Biosphere) and inscribed into the ecological biosphere reservations of the World, being thus protected under an internationally issued convention.

There are rocky and pebbly terraces, sandy beaches, high cliffs, and more than 80 large caves along the canyon.” – From: Wikipedia

Recommend:
HIGHLANDER – GORŠTAK
Tel: +387(0)58/213-225
Mob: +387(0)65/475-201
Adresa: Mojkovačka bb
73300 Foča, BiH
Email: highlandertim@hotmail.com
Website: www.highlandertim.com

Grand Falls of the Una River Gorge- Biha’c  Bosnia and Herzegovina

Falls Jumping….or

Falls Rafting? For ourselves we just took the photo’s.

Recommend:
UNA RC-Kiro Rafting
Coralic MersadKiro, Prof.
Website: www.extreme@una-kiro-rafting.com
Email: extreme@una-kiro-rafting.com

Maria Gates-Nature and Adventure Photographer